Hey my people,
I thought it was about time that
I updated again. Everything is still going well here, I feel more and more
settled by the day. I can’t believe I have only been here three weeks, it feels
like two months already. I am having more new experiences in one day here than
I would in one month at home, so time seems to go really slowly.
The first weekend I was here (21st
January) Jenya, Bianca and I ventured North by 40km to Kakum National Park. It
holds around about 400km2 of protected rainforest, and there is a long walkway
built 40metres above ground in the tree canopy. The walkway is made up of
around 500metres of suspended bridges and tree platforms. It feels very high up from there, and the views
are unbelievable. At first I was so nervous to set foot on the rickety rope walkways
that just had thin wooden plinths to keep your feet from falling through the
gaps, but it was sturdier than it looked. Still, I was unimpressed with the outrageously
annoying American tourist who thought it would be hilarious to start jumping up
and down to shake the ropes whilst shouting “Whoooaah, it would totally suck if
these ropes snapped!”
The park provides protection for
around 40 large mammal species including monkeys, leopards and antelope. Apparently
there are a few herds of pygmy elephant that roam around in the park – a much
smaller species than the savannah elephants you find further North in Mole
National Park. Unfortunately we didn’t see any, but we still had a great time
climbing amongst the trees.
Unfortunately there was a massive
power cut on Friday 20th, when I was supposed to have my first radio
interview, but I have had four since then! I get so incredibly nervous, but
luckily they have all gone relatively smoothly (helped by the fact that the
studios are air conditioned, so I am always generally in the best mood
possible!) I have two weekly slots – Yes FM on Friday mornings and ATL FM on
Friday afternoons. They are the two most popular stations between Takoradi (to
the West) and Accra (to the East), and because television sets are owned only
by the wealthy, everyone in Ghana
listens to the radio (on top bloody volume, I might add). The presenter
initially tried to put me at ease by testing me on my knowledge of Fante - this
did not put me at ease, as he fell about laughing at everything I said! The
radio interviews are part of the outreach and public education programmes that
CHRAJ runs. Every week there is a different topic related to the functions of
CHRAJ, and then the presenter asks me about the same situation into the UK. The
first week, for example, was a piece on how public officials in Ghana can be
held to account for maladministration through CHRAJ, and I spoke a little about
the MP expenses scandal in the UK. We have also done pieces on women and
children’s rights and sexual autonomy. I am not sure yet what next week’s topic
will be – I only find out the day before – but Titi told me that we will start
taking live unscreened questions from callers. I am filled with dread. Wish me
luck!
Yesterday Jenya and I took a trip
to a little fishing town called Elmina, about 11km West of Cape Coast. It is
another perfect example of Ghana’s coastal fortifications. There are two World
Heritage sites here – St George’s Castle (the oldest major stone structure to
be erected by the Europeans in the tropics), and Fort St Jago, which started
out around 1490 as the first Christian church in Ghana, and the second in all
of Africa. 
We decided to give a walk around St George’s Castle a miss, since
the second we stepped inside the courtyard leading up to it we were absolutely
bloody MOBBED by touts grabbing our arms and being really pushy. We looked at
each other and immediately turned on our heels, walking straight back out
towards the town. We opted instead to hike up the hill to an abandoned and
hassle-free St Jago and chill out for an hour or so whilst soaking up the
gorgeous view over Elmina. Apparently the Fort became a leprosy hospital after
the Dutch left in the late 1800s, and then a prison, until it was declared a World
Heritage site in the 1980s.
Another week of studying for my
research paper lies ahead, and next week Jenya and I are heading for a couple
of days of quiet at an eco beach hut called Green Turtle Lodge (thanks for the
recommendation, Molly!) near Takoradi. Still loving life in Cape Coast, but it’s
time for a break from beeping cars and blaring gospel music. Ahhh, silence. I
can’t even imagine...
Peace x
